I arrived in Hong Kong late on a Friday night. I was a bit frustrated because the hotel I had reserved cost me an arm and a leg. Apparently, I had chosen the peak period for travel in the city. Nevertheless, with my hotel I had a free ride from the airport to the hotel. Driving into to the city was inspiring. After having spent three weeks in Manila, Hong Kong was sight for sore eyes. The skyline was marked by illuminated sky scrapers each taller than the next. Each building was lit up with colorful florescent lights that moved in all directions. I could not help but think that the Chinese were not very environmentally conscious, but it was really beautiful.
Once I arrived to the hotel, I understood why it was so expensive. Luckily, I was fortunate enough to have a free upgrade. The elevator that was physically outside the building took me to my room on the 19th floor. I had a spectacular view of the glowing city. I felt I should go out and see something, but exhaustion got the better of me and I slipped into bed.
Saturday, August 13
The next morning I woke up to a real surprise. Behind the sky scrapers that had been so beautifully lit up the previous evening were emerald green mountains. The shapes were incredible; so many more angles and drastic lines than the mountains in California. The mountains that are the backdrop to every view in Hong Kong are actually tropical rainforests, which explains their lush green color. The contrast between Hong Kong’s immaculate, imposing buildings and the intensity of its natural landscape was truly impressive.
As I was trying to figure out what to do and see, I realized that I had a real apprehension about going outside. I had already travelled a lot on my own, but somehow this felt different. Something about China made me feel like I was farther away from home than I had ever been. Nevertheless, with a good map from the hotel and a list of top ten attractions, I made it out the door.
My hotel was located in the Kowloon Peninsula. In order to get to Hong Kong Island I had to take a ferry across the bay, which I did not mind as the person I had sat next to on the plane recommended that I take the ferry. The Victoria Harbor is the bustling heart of Hong Kong, the city’s reason for being. The star ferry I took is famous for its charming little green and white boats.
Once I got across the water, I wanted to head down to Hollywood Road, which is renowned for its antiques. However, there was a busy main road and I could not figure out how to get across. At first, I was convinced that Hong Kong was simply not a pedestrian city, but after a while a learned to look up. In heavy traffic areas, the pedestrian crosswalks are often in the air in Hong Kong. On the way to Hollywood Road, I had to pass through a number of malls. Asians love malls just as much as I hate them.
As I got closer, I passed by the Tung Wah Temple and decided to have a look. The temple was filled with incense and run down electric fans blew the smell in all directions.
Hollywood road is the heart of the Chinese antiques trade. On the streen were ceramics, Ming furniture, buddhas, mandarin robes and antique art galleries. It was kind of like walking through a museum except that everything had price tag.
Next stop on my little itinerary was the peak, a cable car that was to take me to the top of Hong Kong’s viewing tower. Once I made it over to the starting point, I realized that there was an enormous queue, but it had to be done. Standing in line with me were a few other Caucasians, easy to spot across the sea of Asian faces. I have heard it said that the Chinese expression to refer to white people is “big nose”. After my eyes had gotten used to seeing so many flat faces, the occasional white person did seem to have a big honker! I guess everything is relative!
Once I finally made it to the top, the view was well worth it; absolutely breathtaking. I was fortunate to run into a couple of French girls, one of whom had been living in Hong Kong for two years. As she was carefully explaining each one in a sea of building, and pointing out some of the more important parts of the city to her friend, I was able to listen in. The good thing about travelling alone is that it is easy to make friends. After spending some time with them in the viewing station, I left to continue on my journey. 
Just near the drop-off point of the cable car was the Hong Kong Park. They had a beautiful aviary with really exotic species, gorgeous koi ponds, and the lush flora that is synonymous with the rainforests surrounding the city. I was also impressed by the number of exotic butterflies gliding along. It must have been the season. 
I walked along Honk Kong’s Queen’s Road for a good forty minutes in order to get to the Happy Valley Racecourse. Horse racing is a billion dollar business in the country. The race track was closed when I got there, but I convinced the guard to let me take a peak. The hippodrome was a surreal sight. It is a world class track surrounded by residential high-rises, originally built on a swamp in 1845. The grounds were immaculate, and I could see the jockeys training in the centre of the arena. I was very grateful for the guard’s kindness and let him know as I left the racetrack.
Just before catching the ferry I did something that I do not normally like to do when travelling. I ate in at a massive, American chain restaurant; Subway. After three weeks in Asia, my stomach had been pretty upset. I thought Subway would at least be something my stomach was used to. Unfortunately, although the sandwich was good, my condition remained the same.
I got on the ferry at sunset, perfect timing. As the sun set over to waters, the reds, oranges, and purples illuminated the waters and were reflected on the sky scrapers. As luck would have it, there was a full moon already hanging over the Eastern part of the sky.
I then had a choice to make: visit Lamma Island, a beautiful and traditional part of the city, or check out the rooftop pool in my hotel. I chose the latter. By the time I made it to the pool, night had already fallen. I was the only there, the water was heated, and I had an impeccable view. I did not regret my choice.
After about an hour of doing nothing in the pool, I gathered enough energy to make out to the Kowloon Night Markets just outside the hotel. Going to the street markets was the best way to experience local culture. As I snaked through the tightly packed outdoor shops, merchants were selling clothes, accessories, tech gadgets, kitsch souvenirs and more. Some offered to read palms and faces or to have a bird pick your fortune. I made it out of there with only two small purchases: a little bronze lion and a Chinese tea set in memory of my trip.
Sunday, August 14
Today, I switched hotels. I left my luxurious hotel for hostel that was in keeping with my dwindling budget. The hostel was just down the street so I did not have to travel far. However, when I arrived I was in for quite a shock. The bed sheets were hanging in the entrance and parts of the building were still under construction. Just before I got to the front desk, a complete disaster, two women asked if they could have a room just for two hours. I suspected that they did not intend to use the room for prayer. The frustrated little Chinese man behind the desk told them that they could have the room for two hours for the same price that I was paying. When I then approached, he told me that my room was under construction and offered a dormitory for a cheaper price. I could not believe it. I got shafted so that two lesbians could get it on in my room! Since I did not have much choice in the matter I accepted his lie about the room being under construction and found myself back in a youth hostel.
After dropping off my things in the horrid hostel, I said a little prayer so that they would not get stolen and set out to set the giant bronze Buddha. It is said to be the largest one in the world. In order to get there I had to take the Hong Kong metro, which was also a good local experience. The metro was really pristine. I remember being impressed by the extent to which people take care of public property.
The metro lead me to the terminus of a cable car that runs from the main island to Lantau, the island on which the Buddha is located. Once I got to the cable car station, I was disappointed to see that there was again an enormous line. However, they were offering a package deal for 30 American dollars to have a personal guide take you to the Buddha, a neighboring fishing village, some of the local temples, AND take you directly to the front of the line… sold! As a bypassed the hundreds of people waiting in line, I was extremely grateful to have been able to pay for the tour. The cable car ride was a visit in itself. The car took as over the islands and across the waters. Along the way I saw traditional Chinese fisherman with their pointy straw hats sifting for clams. I also saw some spectacular waterfalls running the lush, green rainforests.
Once back on the ground, I had to hurry to meet the guide by 3PM in front of the designated meeting point… Starbucks! Even at the foot of the ancient Buddha, found in the middle on some obscure island, there is a Starbucks. I am a bit embarrassed to write that I had a double chocolate chip frappacino, but it was the perfect relief from the scorching heat!
From there the guide took us to the traditional fishing village. The first stop was the Kwan Tai Temple. The temple was filled with incense, a gong, and statues of the Chinese god of the sea. The fisherman traditionally pray to this god in order to ask for protection while out at sea. Whale bones were placed in the corners of the temple for further protection. The village itself stank of rotting fish and the people lived in small huts and makeshift houses. The guide showed us how they prepare the traditional fish, covered in salt and then baked in the sun for several weeks. He told us that he used to buy a fish there every week until he saw the owner snatch one of the fish out of the mouth of a mischievous cat and put it back on the line. The village was vibrant and the exchanges between its inhabitants quite colorful. I bought a traditional fisherman’s hat to remember the experience.
The guide then took as to the bronze Buddha. The Chinese had originally asked for help from the Japanese in order to fund the works, but the Japanese were only willing to offer their help if the Buddha would be facing Tokyo. The Chinese declined the “friendly” offer and built the Buddha facing Beijing. Because of this decision, it is the only northern facing Buddha in China, as all the others face south. The Buddha was impressive, but I think it was the journey and the view on the top of the island that I enjoyed most. 
I then headed back to the hostel. In the dormitory I met Victor, a Frenchman who was coming to the end of a year-long trek in Asia and sleeping right next to me in the hostel. We hit it off right away and I was grateful for the company after having spent some time travelling alone. We decided to go explore the Hong Kong’s night life. Every evening at 8 o’clock Hong Kong hosts what is known as the Symphony of Lights. Music is played for ten minutes while the neon lights that cover the city’s enormous sky scrapers dance in synchronization. Apparently, it is the largest spectacle of its kind and it was truly worth seeing.
Victor had already bought a ticket for the Imax theatre and so I tagged along. The movie was American made, and dedicated to our deeper understanding of how stars are formed thanks to the Hubble. The movie was truly well done and made me think about all of the existential questions that one begins to ask when thinking about the universe. Man is so insignificant in terms of our size and yet so important in terms of our existence. I felt like I had travelled albeit I was already on the other half of the world.
From there we headed to Lan Kwai Fong, reputed as being a must see for night life in Hong Kong. My students in Manila had also recommended I go there. The area was just a grouping of Occidental-like bars and a lot of expats. Nevertheless, we managed to have a good time. It was a good way to end my last evening in Hong Kong, a city that I particularly enjoyed.
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