July 13
We left Paris early on a Wednesday to head out to Istanbul. With very little preparation, we did not know how much the currency was worth or even if Istanbul was in the same time zone. Our first surprise was that we needed a visa to get into the country. Fortunately, the purchase of tourist visas was conveniently available as soon as we got off the plane.
Once out of the airport the taxi took as straight to the hotel that Pedro had booked. The Avicenna was a beautiful white hotel overlooking the famous Blue Mosque that is so famous in Istanbul. Once I had a look inside the hotel, I knew that it was far above what I would normally spend. Its luxurious interior was in fact an early birthday surprise!
From there we worked out our itinerary for the next few days and made a reservation for a restaurant that was to host belly dancers. A ghetto version of celebrity mini bus picked us up at the hotel and took as to the restaurant… for free! After getting out of the van, a small boy escorted us to the restaurant. Located right in the heart of Gerdantik Sk, we had definitely walked into a tourist trap, but we were willing to play the game. We ate on a balcony where live music was playing and we could overlook the other restaurants and people eating out in the street. This was the first time that I really felt like I was on vacation. The food was excellent and the thing to eat in Istanbul is seafood! We had octopus, shrimps, fried calamari, red bell peppers and ratatouille as appetizers, and a fish ragout served over an open flame for the main course. Because the night was slow the belly dancers never came out, but the good food and atmosphere made up for the disappointment.
Just in front of our table was an Arab couple visibly on a date. The woman, who normally was completely covered, had removed the veil from her face in order to eat. Although I could not understand anything that was spoken between them, their conversation seemed light hearted and jovial. I wondered if she was his wife or if they were undergoing some kind of courtship. It is strange how limited we are by our cultural perspective. There are so many things about their way of life that I will probably just never understand.
As the sun set on the city, we decided to walk back to the hotel. In passing through the places where people live, the mix of occidental and oriental cultural was really striking. In addition, many of the homes were extremely run down which was in contrast to immaculate monuments all around the city. The people look the part as well, a mix of Arabic and European facial features and body shapes. Back in our luxurious hotel, we tried to get to sleep despite the sweltering heat!
July 14
Today was the first full day. We set out to hit the major sites in Istanbul after making the most of the free breakfast offered by the hotel; a breakfast that was on a little terrace overlooking the city.
Hagia Sofia
Once we arrived, we were disillusioned by the an enormous line. As we were getting ready to queue, a gentleman asked if we were interested in having a guide for five Euros more and without having to wait in line. Yes! Our guide turned out to be fantastic and was able to cram thousands of years of history into 10 minutes.
Hagia Sofia, means Holy Wisdom and is absolutely breathtaking. From the date of its dedication in 360 until 1453, it served as the Greek Patriarchal cathedral of Constantinople, except between 1204 and 1261, when it was converted to a Roman Catholic cathedral under the Latin Patriarch of Constantinople of the Western Crusader established Latin Empire. The building became a mosque from 29 May 1453 until 1931, when it was secularized. It was opened as a museum on February 1, 1935. Hagia Sopia is the oldest standing Christian Church and was built only 400 years after the death of Christ; before the Catholic Church had separated from the Greek Orthodox Church, and before Islam was a religion. This is the oldest building I have ever been in and it made Europe seem like a young continent.
It was fascinating to see how Christ and the holy figures were represented during this period, so recent from His having walked the earth. The angels that one reads about in Revelations with wing covering their bodies, feet, and hands were painted on the four corners of the church. Because Muslims do not portray human or humanlike figures in their mosques, the faces had been covered during the period that the church became a mosque. However, one of the faces was uncovered when it became a museum in order to reveal what it was looked like. The entire ceiling was made of tiny mosaics, over 31 million the guide was careful to specify. Many of these mosaics were covered up when Hagia Sophia was a mosque, but had now been partially revealed. As the guide spoke about stones coming from Libya and Egypt, I could not help but think of the temple of Solomon. The church was originally built facing Jerusalem, but the alter was redirected to face Mecca when it was a mosque. What a powerful piece of history!
Sunken Palace
From there we went to the Basilica Cistern. The underground cistern was dark and damp and seemed to capture something quite magical. It was built by Justinias, emperor during the Byzantine Empire in the 6th century and encompasses an underground labyrinth of columns. A wooden walk has been built in order to explore the cistern from within and there still remains about two feet of water with fish swimming about. In the farther southwestern part, two medusa heads serve as the base of the columns. They are considered masterpieces of the Roman Period. It was there, that we got pictures dressed up as Sultans from another time. Quite fun!
Blue Mosque
From there we moseyed over to the Blue Mosque that marks the Istanbul skyline and is probably the most famous part of the city. When we arrived, it as in the time of Muslim prayer and so we had to wait a bit. In order to get inside, we had to take of our shoes and Pedro had to wear a cloth around his waste in order to cover his knees. This piece of architecture was simply stunning.
The mosque was commissioned by Sultan Ahmet I when he was only 19 years old. It was built near the Hagia Sophia, over the site of the ancient hippodrome and Byzantine imperial palace. Construction work began in 1609 and took seven years. The Blue Mosque is just like it is named, blue. As Muslims do not have representations of people in their places of worship, everything was covered in intricate painted blue tiles and stain glass windows save the flooring which is covered by a giant red oriental rug. I felt very privileged to be able to have been in this place and to have seen such things.
Hippodrome and Obelisk
After the mosque, we wanted to see the obelisk and hippodrome that were supposed to be next door. The Egyptian obelisk was easy to spot. I was a bit unimpressed by its stature. It just looked like a giant piece of concrete with Eyptian writing; paling in comparison to the Obelisk in Paris or even in Washington. However, the obelisk was made of granite and brought from Egypt in 390 for the emperor Teodosio.
We must have looked around for about 15 minutes, carefully scanning the map, before finally figuring out that we were actually standing on the hippodrome. The hippodrome no longer had horses and had only kept its original form since it had been made into a city square.
Topkapi Palace
The Topkapı Palace is a palace in Istanbul, Turkey, which was the official and primary residence in the city of the Ottoman Sultans for approximately 400 years (1465-1856) of their 624-year reign.
The opulence and wealth in the palace was over the top. All of the trimmings were in gold. The streets were lined with little black and white pebbles forming intricate designs. The rooms were covered with little tiles and mosaics. The views overlooking the Mediterranean Sea and surrounding forests were incredible. I tried to imagine what life must have been like when it was still inhabited by sultans.
Apparently, it was not that wonderful. The palace hosts a number of secrets. This was the home of Selim II the drunkard, who died from an overdose of Champagne. This is also where Ibrahim lost his mind because his brother had kept him in prison for 22 years. It was in this palace that Roxelana the horrific, a concubine, was said to have been able to convert herself into right hand of Soliman the Great. History speaks of many more stories like this, and the palace is known for its crazy intrigues.
As I am writing this in the hotel room, the call for prayer has just begun. The eerie sound of Muslim song is amplified throughout the city and the echo of its believers can be heard across the land.
July 15
Today was dedicated to a guided tour recommended by our hotel. We were told that the bus would be 15 minutes late because the driver has gotten into an accident and that one of the people was hurt. I was relieved to know that our driver could be trusted! On the bus, we passed by the Istanbul Train Station that was the last stop for the famous Orient Express. The Orient Express took its passengers from Paris to Istanbul, the journey we had just made by plane.
Somehow, we made it safely to the boat that took us across the Black Sea and the Sea of Marmara. It is from Marmara that we derive the work marble, an important part of the Turkish economy. The Sea of Marmara divides Istanbul into two parts and marks the distinction between the continents of Europe and Asia. Travelling between the two continents was a lot of fun. Strangely enough, it is the European side that is marked by mosques and historical monuments, whereas on the Asian site were situated enormous homes that reminded me of the types of beach homes one might find on the California coast.
After the boat ride, we visited the Dolmabahçe Mosque that is located on the Bosphorus. The mosque was built for Sultan Abdülmecid's mother in a Baroque fashion. Although the layout was that of a typical mosque, the interior reminded me of the kinds of music halls that Bach used to perform in Vienna. This city is truly the mix of Occidental and Arabic culture.
From there, we took a chair lift over the hillside cemetery of Eyüp where we could see the surrounding walls and aqueducts built by Constantine. This Roman Emperor gave the city its name and was the first to convert to Christianity. His doing so is arguably the single greatest act in making the then Christian sect the religion what it is today; for better or for worse.
We had a nice lunch before heading out to the Dolmabahçe Palace built in 1856. This palace made the Palace of Versailles look like the maids quarters. I have never seen anything so opulent in my entire life. Everything was lined with gold. The staircases were made of marble and crystal. Giant crystal chandeliers adorned every room and the gardens were paradisiacal. The palace, financed by French and English bankers, took more than a hundred years to be paid off. It is referred to the locals as the bankrupt palace because of its huge detriment to the Turkish economy. Nevertheless, it must be among the most beautiful sites in the world, and as someone who lives in and loves Paris, that is saying something!
Our last stop was over in Asia where we had ice cream on a hillside overlooking the European continent, not too shabby! Back in the hotel room, Pedro and I are getting ready to go out for some fresh fish before hitting the most famous tradition Turkish bath, Cemberlitas.
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Before slipping off to bed, I have to write about the traditional Turkish bath. What a trip! This was an incredible human experience. It is more like a hammam. The building is a huge dome whose base and supporting columns are made of marble. In the middle there is a giant marble slab where you lay out. The marble is warm and almost hot. You are wearing a Turkish wrap or Pestemal. People are speaking in Turkish, which is a bit like Spanish or Italian; speak it loud or don't speak it at all. Once your body temperature has risen due to the steam and warm marble, someone throws hot water on you. At this point, an enormous Turkish man with a big glove scrubs your back side and then flips you over like a pancake to get the other side. Now covered in soap, you sit down on the outer edge of the room next to one of the many fossetts. There, the Turkish man throws more hot water on you until you are completely rinsed off. Someone points to the door where you go to get a massage. You are discretely changed into a dry Pestemal, spread out on a table and another Turkish man gives you the most serious massage you have had in your life. For me, this was quite easy to accomplish as it was my first professional massage! There is nothing delicate about it. Your body is slapped, beaten, and pressed. Once he finds a knot, it is all over. Afterwards, you take a shower and try to figure out what just happened to you. Once outside, you feel like a million bucks. Your body is completely relaxed and it is one of the rare moments in life where your vision seems more acute and the world seems absolutely spectacular for just a moment.
July 16
We got up early to take another boat ride, but this time out to the Princes' Islands; a string of six islands that are just off the coast of Istanbul. Among the passengers were Arabic women in burkas, two French women dressed in summer wear, and an Argentinean woman in a bikini. What a mix!
Traveling from one island to another was exquisite. On the islands, motors are not allowed, so the only means of transportation is horse and buggy! The islands contain the remnants of the Greek culture that was once here before the Turkish tribes invaded and eventually conquered the mainland. A large Greek Orthodox Church is found on each one. Having my roots in Western Europe, it is easy to forget that the Catholic Church is simply a result of the many divisions and factions that mark the pages of Christian history.
The islands were like little beach communities where people were dressed in shorts and thongs. Muslim veils were few and far between. Along the way we made friends with the two French ladies, one of whom was also Turkish. Getting her insight into the culture and way of life made the experience all the richer. It is odd how, while on vacation, we can talk and laugh about subjects of the heart and even share our lives with perfect strangers.
Today was like a vacation from our vacations. For the last island, the boat dropped off those who wanted to shop and then cruised around to the beach for those who wanted to swim. Pedro and I wanted to swim! Before diving in I noticed that there were tiny little jelly fish all over the waters. When I asked the guide, he assured me that they did not sting. Enough said, I was in the water and grateful to have a relief from the immense heat. Indeed, the jelly fish did not sting. I could even pick them up with my hands. The texture was slimy like how I would imagine touching a giant slug would be. They were completely transparent and without any color. Swimming among them and watching their slow movements in the water was extremely relaxing.
On the way back we passed by Kiz Kulesi or the Maiden's Tower. Our new French/Turkish friend recounted the legend: "After a series of three dreams, the Turkish sultan sought to have them interpreted. The seer was reluctant to reveal the meaning, but finally gave in due to the sultan's insistence. He claimed that the sultan's beloved daughter would be killed by a serpent before the end of her 18th birthday. The sultan, in an effort to thwart his daughter's early demise had a tower built in the middle of the Bosphorus, where she was to live until her 18th birthday. She was only frequented by her father and a dear friend. On the 18th birthday of the princess, her childhood friend brought her a basket of freshly picked apples. That night a venomous snake that had managed to creep into the basket slithered out and bit the sultan's daughter. She died in her father's arms just as the oracle had predicted. Hence the name Maiden's Tower."
July 17
Today was fairly calm. We walked down to the Grand Bazaar to discover that it was closed on Sundays. From there, we walked to the Little Hagia Sophia, which was quite beautiful. Much smaller than the first enormous Hagia Sophia that we had seen the day we arrived; this one had more of a subtle charm. Again, like the first it was once a church that had been converted to a mosque.
From there we walked along the coast a bit before making our way back across town to get to the Egyptian Spice Market. The market was pretty impressive with lots of Turkish delicacies including the famous Turkish delights. The Spice Bazaar is one of the oldest bazaars in the city. Located in Fatih, it is the second largest covered shopping complex after the Grand Bazaar. The bazaar gets its name from the fact that many spices were imported via Egypt during the Ottoman period. The bazaar was and still is the center for all spice trade in Istanbul.
We then had to change hotels. The new hotel is quite nice and located to the newer part of the city, which means that we will have more opportunities to go out. That being said, I have been lying on the bed for hours now enjoying doing absolutely nothing.
July 18
Today we finally made it to the Grand Bazaar. On the way we passed by a book store that was selling translated versions of the Koran. I got a hard back version as well as a smaller paperback version to read in the metro. When Pedro and I finish the Bible this year, I am going to start reading the Koran in 2012.
The Grand Bazaar is one of the largest and oldest covered markets in the world, with more than 58 covered streets and over 4,000 shops that attract between 250,000 and half a million visitors a day. It is well known for its jewelry, pottery, spice, and carpet shops. Many of the stalls in the bazaar are grouped by the type of goods, with special areas for leather coats, gold jewelry, etc. The grand bazaar houses two mosques, two hammams, four fountains, and multiple restaurants and cafes. The sprawling complex consists of 12 major buildings and has 22 doors.
In this labyrinth of covered shopping, you can find everything from antiques to the cheap souvenirs that tourists often buy. I had set out to buy a ceramic vase for myself and Pedro, fun Turkish clothing for his niece and nephews. Clearly, he is the altruistic one! On the way to my ceramic vase, I ended up getting a small wooden box and a genie's lamp. I really enjoyed the people. The Turkish are very light hearted and have a good sense of humor. They like to negotiate like other Arabic cultures, but there are much better about it. I remember in Morocco that I had to start from half of the price they started with and be ready to walk out at any given moment. However, in Turkey, the price is just a bit higher than the real price and the negotiation is a lot less aggressive. I finally ended up getting a hand painted ceramic vase with the golden horn design that is the signature of Turkish ceramic art.
On the way back to the hotel, we passed by an El Torito. I could not believe that there was a Mexican restaurant in Turkey, let alone an El Torito. As this was my favorite restaurant as I kid, I had to check it out. The food was great, much better than the Mexican food we have in France. It was fairly authentic. 
After dinner we decided to go to a roof top pool in order to cool off. As we were there the sun began to set. It really felt like a moment in paradise.
Tonight, we are going to another hammam and then out dancing.
July 19
This was our last full day in Turkey. We decided to forget the cultural aspect and escape the heat by heading over to the water park. As it was a bit out of town, we took the train, a bus and then a taxi to get there. We were motivated! I was impressed by the condition of the roads in Turkey and the quality of the public transport. The bus that we took in the middle of our journey actually had its own section in the middle of the freeway. Despite the grueling traffic on either side, we just zoomed on ahead.
The park was complete with several pools, waterfalls, a wave machined and numerous slides. It was a real change from the heart of Istanbul. After seeing so many veils it was quite a contrast to being surrounded by so many bikinis. They even hosted a belling dancing contest in the middle of the complex. For anyone that has ever wondered how the conservative Muslim woman can go for a swim, the answer is the burkini. I thought it was a joke at first, but we saw a few of them at the water park. The burkini is a full length bathing suit like a wetsuit, with a bathing suit dress over the top and of course, a little hat to hide one's hair. It looks incredibly uncomfortable, but at least you can go in the water while your husband is around.
We had dinner at a little fish restaurant under the Galata bridge where the fisherman bring in the catch of the day each morning. The bridge leads to Taksim, the more European part of Istanbul where we had gone out dancing the night before and where we went out dancing again tonight.
Istanbul was a fantastic vacation spot. Although we only touched the surface of its cultural and historical wealth, I was extremely impressed. The warmth and the humor of the Turkish people was a pleasant surprise, and their hospitality was among the most genuine that I have experienced in my all my travels thus far.
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