November 24
I arrived on a Thursday, Thanksgiving in fact. Once off the train, where I had met a excess of Americans all making the most of the holiday, I met up with Christopher. A previous roommate and now good friend from New York, Christopher was actually born in England. His funny accent suddenly seemed so appropriate as I then realized how awkward my own speech was in this place. It is strange. I moved to France to learn French and realized that I never really spoke English!
Anyhow, we walked through St James Park, past the Royal Palace, the Queen’s Chapel, and then the St James Palace. After being immediately overwhelmed by the tradition of English royalty, it was the park that took my breath away. Everything is so lush and green. (The benefit of interminable rain, I suppose.) English gardens seem to spill over. Water fowl, some which I had never before seen, literally cover the creeks that run through the park. These happy birds were hemmed in by the weeping willows which boundaried the two banks. I can only imagine what the English countryside must be like.
After leaving the park, we walked along streets with odd little names like, Piccadilly Circus and Seven Dials. (Piccadilly Circus, a poor imitation of “Time Square” and seven dials, the meeting place of seven little cobble stone roads.) The Christmas season was just beginning, and London put France to shame. Live Christmas trees, completely decorated, were set at the top of each of the very old and dimly lit street lanterns. Garlands covered all the railings, and the cold everlasting fog of the English climate felt keenly appropriate. (Everyone dressed in scarves, long coats, and fuzzy hats.) However, it was the general politeness of the English people that was the “pièce de résistance” in creating an overwhelming feeling of Christmas tidings and good cheer.
After dinner which was, of course, French (even the English can’t stand English food), I walked through Parliament Square and saw Big Ben and the House of Parliament for the first time (a most impressive sight). They sure don’t build ‘em like that anymore. Dripping with steeples, stain glass, and gold leaf, it is easily the pride and joy of the city.
November 25
Friday presented a walk along the South bank of the Thames River. Crossing over the Lambert bridge, I visited the Tate Modern Museum and the recreation of the Globe, Shakespeare’s theater. What is most impressive about London’s architecture is the mixture of the ancient and the modern. There is a real sense of the passage of time, and yet, somehow, it looks as though it was all planned that way.
My personal favorite was Saint Paul’s Cathedral. Too breathtaking for words, I decided to sit down and pray. After an assent to the top of the church via a precarious medieval staircase, I was able to catch a glimpse of the city skyline at sunset. This marked what would be my favorite moment in London.
We then made a quick joint across the river on the Millennial Bridge (a completely modern pedestrian bridge) and made it to the Museum of London. This was a must for me as I was able to learn a great deal concerning the general history.
November 26
It was lunch at Wagamamas (Japanese, anything but English), a walk through the British Museum, a second lunch at Patisserie Valerie (French, amazing pastries), sunset at Hyde Park, and then a look at Harrods Department Store (In the words of an American who did not think American commercialism could be out done, “I was impressed.”)
Dinner that night took place at the home of some of Christopher’s close friends. Among great company, I was able to talk to someone who just got back from working in Africa and had nothing but good things to say about the work that Peace Corps is doing there.
It was then that the host asked me, as an American, what I liked most about London. I replied that I loved the depth of history that is so evident when walking around the city. Another Englishman condescendingly suggested that the city was not really that old considering that most things were burnt down in the fire of 1666. I was trying to explain how little history we have in the States when an Australian chimed in and defended my contention as she too was from a young country. This all would have been irrelevant had I not had a bit of an epiphany. I realised that I had much in common with this Australian and even with Canadians for that matter. I was beginning to understanding the implications of being a child of what was once the British Empire, albeit the US quite rebellious and more successful than its parent. Australia and Canada would then be our siblings or cousins at least. For the first time I had the occasion to step outside of my culture and see it from a different perspective, to see it in the light with which others hold it. That is a most powerful experience. Suddenly, the world seemed profoundly more connected.
November 27
Before heading back to the Airport, Christopher and I had breakfast at Wolseleys. We finally had a traditional English breakfast in what was a traditional English restaurant (and it was great)!
To London I will return.
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